Recovered Cowboy Boot Course Video Series

YouTube video digitization of a series of films demonstrating cowboy boot making

0. Equipment and Tools

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3UMyIiYA98&list=PL0BBq_GNOdnohSSr43T55nLPyo0D12zrd

• bell skiver
• post machine
• two flat bed sewing machines, one for heavy work, one for topstitching

1. Measuring the Foot

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6FSofasPMms&list=PL0BBq_GNOdnohSSr43T55nLPyo0D12zrd

2. Last Fitting

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vyZf_7Y52DE&list=PL0BBq_GNOdnohSSr43T55nLPyo0D12zrd

• Civil War times: straight lasts
• sizing only about 100 years old
• sample lasts 6B in ladies, 8D in men’s
• mostly plastic now
• ferrule
  • ⅜ or ½″
  • most newer use ½″
• cone
  • Lucchese in-flared cone
    • points at big toe
    • factories don’t use because too hard to sew welt through inside waist
  • modern, straighter waisted lasts accommodate machinery
• toe spring for gait
• heel pitch
  • can vary up or down ¼″, total ½″
• crown
  • most factory lasts flat
  • prefer curved for comfort
• last plates
  • “three-quarter bottom”: plate up through arch
  • full metal bottom, with three holes for tacking insoles
  • older: heel plate and toe plate, for wear
• alpha hinge modern
• shows breaking a last on bench
• removable cone
  • e.g. Dalton’s [spelling?] from Texas
  • shows breaking
• arithmetic method of measuring in USA
  • ⅓ inch in length per full size
  • ¼ inch in girth per full size
• toe shapes
  • pointed
  • rounder
  • “Lucchese toe” = squared off, snipped toe
• Dennis on fitting
• more black magic in last fitting than other steps
• now says ⅛ per size
• often fits short for a fatty foot
• foot outline
• cut out pedigraph impression to lay inside tracing, showing difference
• much smaller than tracing
• shows bunion, which impression didn’t show
• use the impression for arch length
• use tracing for where to build last up
• shows last too long over colored impression
• mismatch of balls
• shows last that’s right length, but too narrow
• then shows his chosen last over it
• first tries to fit arch length
  • too long: pinches foot
  • too short: pinches toes
• then shows lasts over just the tracing
  • more guesswork
  • don’t worry about missing room in outside arch unless lots of fatty tissue there
• flat but wide foot, so narrower last to shrink heel measurement
• lose ¼ in short heel for every width down
• grinding lasts down modifies them permanently, so often easier to build up
• does grind lasts now, but doesn’t recommend starting that way
• may have to build up sides of heel
• once chosen a last, check girths with tape measure
• building up middle of instep and big toe (for bunion)
• bootmakers develop their own pattern, then forget it and just do what they do
• build up around the instep, not on top of it, place more to the inside
• skives with round knife
• Fortuna skiver does as good a job, faster
• cost about $1k for a used one
• uses contact cement
• if ½″ or more, will have to nail it onto plastic
• use old magazines as disposable clean surface for gluing
• have to be more careful with new leather than old
• can sand on finisher or skive edges with knife
• have bunions a sign that buying too small
• salesmen say slip is normal since that’s the only way they can get fit
• has made about 230 pairs, had to seriously adjust about 6 pair for fit
• may try to talk customer into rounder toe shape to suit foot
• needle toes were hard to fit
  • had to slice welts to fit around toe
  • had to build special toolbox for them
• ask if like a tight fit
• fits lighter leather tighter
  • e.g. kangaroo: Take in as much as ¼″
  • e.g. 4 oz work leather: stay within ⅛″ smaller than measured
• measures waist again
• middle instep girth
• high instep girth
• short heel at same point as high instep
• within ¼ of heel measurement OK
• otherwise, grind down or go to narrower last
• fitting review
  • stick measurement for inches
  • convert inches to sizes
  • last chart to find widths row
  • find corresponding width for girth
  • get the lasts and compare to tracings and impressions
  • check arch length first
  • don’t hurry through it
  • check heel measurement
  • wide, flat feet have hard time buying factory Western boots
  • should need some force to put on and pull off, minimal heel slip
  • “go on hard, go off hard”
• example lasts for customer with lots of build-up
  • “can’t buy shoes”
  • EEE Last, now about an H
  • ¼ inch off each side of the ball
  • hammer toes, so lots of added depth
  • ½″ on each side of instep
  • very narrow heel, so standard heel
• pair with huge difference between feet from the toe forward
  • 9 through instep
  • one a 9 throughout, other more like a 6
  • customer buys them, go home with the customer
• buy odds and ends lasts to put away for extreme customizations
• Doesn’t keep customer’s lasts. Doesn’t feel it’s right.
• should be able to take lasts to someone else
• big bunion calcium growth on bottom of foot
• added to heel to account for heel tending to flare out in one direction
• shows pair of lasts where customer wanted old Hyer square toe
• can also change toe shape when putting on toe box

3. Insoles

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=doIYnZ-z13g&list=PL0BBq_GNOdnohSSr43T55nLPyo0D12zrd

• the heavier, the better
• take flesh off inside
• take finish/glaze off other side
• avoids cracking
• uses line finisher
• Naumkeag to smooth leather build-up on last
• soak about 10 minutes in warm water
• cuts counters and insoles out of firm, heavy leather
• brown in water
• if you use metal container, will turn black, stain lighter leathers
• rinse off
• the old-fashioned way
  • lasting jack
  • half-inch ferrule
  • can make adapter for shoe repair jack
  • flesh side up
  • leather strap across waist, hair side toward last
  • hammer to shape
  • then tacks toe
  • wrap the last or tack all the way around so dries formed to last
  • metal heel plate prevents tacking around seat
  • 5-in-1 to trim
  • about ⅛ out from line left by hammering to featherline, to allow for shrinkage
• other method: pneumatic staple gun
  • stapler useful for sandal repair, too
• simple method: long elastic band
  • about 2½ inch wide
  • start at heel
  • ends pulling over tip of toe
  • tack or staple down under tension
  • takes about three days to dry
• some boot companies don’t mold, use lighter weight
• let dry two days
• insole carving
  • dried about three days
  • USM tack puller
    • harder to get out of wood lasts
  • sands edge of insole smooth to last
  • check symmetry of waist widths
  • tapers edges down inward somewhat
  • if full welted, will leave square through waist
  • mark line in approx ⅛ inch
  • “kind of countersink”
  • 3/4 welted: want to end behind the ball of the foot
  • channels on machine: ladies’ heel trimmer, remove guide, set depth
  • about halfway down through insole
  • straightened up lasts for factory work to make access into waist easier
  • creates space for leather to come around, welt to set into
  • 90 degree ledge makes easy to find with awl when inseaming from the outside
  • can channel with a very sharp knife
    • breakaway knives work well
    • moisten to make easier
    • cut once from side, one from top
  • if nail rather than elastic, end up moving tacks to make room to channel
  • mark in ⅜ inch from channel
  • cuts channel with snap-off knife
  • about ⅛ inch deep
  • just incises one line
  • if cut sloped channel with two cuts, have to fill it later
  • moisten if having trouble
  • [leather really squeaking as he cuts]
  • wets with spray bottle, uses heel pry to spread channel
  • recommends ⅜ so as shrinks, welt won’t pull out

4. Leathers

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Qr9XTOjIXk&list=PL0BBq_GNOdnohSSr43T55nLPyo0D12zrd

• shows full kidskin hide
• cut with stretch in particular directions
• boot tops: around, so doesn’t get bigger, expand to let foot in and come back
• stretch from belly to backbone
• areas to avoid
  • leg
  • belly
• vamp with stretch toward toe, not across
• in factories, job to get as many pieces as possible
• cut vamp out of the “heart of the hide”, near the backbone
• same for sole leather
• lay out and look for defects
• cowboys put brands in the darndest places
• dye may be uneven from tannery
• cut vamps as close together as possible
• knife marks on flesh side
• good leather will feel like velvet
• some bootmakers will touch it to cheek to find softest part
• footage mark
• now mostly computerized
• each type works and stretches differently
• still not sure has crocodile down
• kidskin
  • very nice to work with
  • doesn’t tear easily
  • very soft
  • smooth and glazed finishes
• kangaroo
  • finest dress leathers
  • but scuffs terribly
  • finish can peel off
  • not for customers who won’t care for finish
  • tough
  • more elastic than kid
  • tears easier than kidskin
  • use wider-jawed lasting pliers
• water buffalo
  • very wrinkly texture
  • tough to work with
  • soaks in stretching solution before making
  • water soaking doesn’t do much
  • not much stretch
• oil tanned work boot leather
  • “retan”
  • water resistant
  • easier to care for
  • very durable
  • about 3 oz
  • versus dress: 1½–2
  • White’s in Spokane uses 3–4 oz
• bullhide
  • on trend right now
  • sells more than all other skins combined
  • highly textured
  • wonderful to work with
  • forgiving
  • great for lasting
  • big sides, good for many pairs
  • not common for tops
  • reasonable price
  • wrinkles already in it
  • for daily wear, customers who don’t care for them
• standard everyday 2–3 oz cowhide
• lining leathers
  • “I use pigskin.”
    • hair follicles go all the way through
    • “it breathes”
    • cream cow, ortho can rot out
    • pigskin does smell stronger
  • orthopedic
    • cowhide
    • call it cream cow
    • buckskin shade or lighter shade
    • bought some bad white ortho that tears really easily
    • now uses for heel pads and fillers instead
• doesn’t use imprinted leathers
  • as you stretch it, the imprint comes out
  • e.g. lizard print
• lining: softer under vamps, stiffer under uppers/shafts
• avoid drooping around ankles
• with good lining, may not need heel slider
• exotics
  • shark
    • only use the center
    • tough
    • forgiving
    • can stretch some texture out
    • always check both sides, for knife cuts
    • if caught and not skinned immediately, or frozen, skin will suffer
    • have to shop around
  • anteater
  • lizard
    • keeps in box because expensive
    • good example
      • soft
      • can get a full vamp without piecing
      • most boot companies piece
      • chamois tanned
    • bad example
      • older tannage, boardy, brittle
    • need to back with something
    • 1 oz pigskin
    • glue before cutting out
    • factories mostly back with canvas
  • python
    • big quality variance
    • large scales
    • buy large enough to get whole vamps
    • back-cut versus belly-cut
    • finer scales in middle
    • finish qualities vary
    • some feel almost plastic coated
    • doesn’t like to piece across the part that bends
    • always roll up with finish in the inside, to avoid accidental damage or staining
  • elephant
    • very textured
    • little stiffer than bullhide
    • tries to only buy inner ear, for finer grain
    • sides have to be split a lot, breaks out between texture squares
    • good for value
  • ostrich
    • doesn’t stock it
    • terribly expensive
    • will order in
    • works like kangaroo, but more durable
  • anteater
    • takes 2–3 skins
    • sold in sets of three
    • larger scales
    • more skin behind scales
    • shows vamp and counter skeleton
    • $425 for three skins
    • $700–750 for anteater boots
    • easier to work than lizard
    • offers belt buckles to match from tail scraps
• french calf, waxed calf, need to experiment on each hide
• trying to get rid of leather
• find a stable of colors for shafts
• stocking exotics costly
• can buy small enough quantities to avoid stocking
• issue: when a customer comes back for more, and you can’t get it

17. Findings

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0PMi_DhqfQQ

• lasting pliers
  • ordered from USM, #3, wouldn’t recommend
  • get the #2 instead, right size
  • smallest, for toe, #0
• crow wheel
  • from Sademore [???]
• finders
  • many suppliers only work in quantity
  • shoe finders will sell one of something
  • write to American Shoe Service, who has list of finders
  • buy local, to cut postage
  • Plains Leather in Lubbock geared to boots
    • e.g. sell smaller spools of thread, 800 yards
    • softer thread, size 46
    • 69 for patching machine for repair
    • spool size B
    • 46 for pattern stitching
    • soft thread
    • bigged spools: bonded thread, stiffer, easier to feed
    • bonded sometimes called “glazed”
• hot glue
  • stuff from Sears just alright
  • take a cold piece, bend it, should flex without break or crack
  • set up more like rubber than glue
• Lexol
  • cleaner and conditioner
  • 80% lanolin
  • can shine over it
  • give customers a jar of it
  • give customers no excuse for not taking care
• magazine [can’t see cover]
  • geared to bigger outfits
  • ads moreso than articles
• staple gun
  • JN2333 model number
  • Senco [???] in Billings, Montana
  • ask about used ones
  • shoots a narrower staple
  • better for lasting than wide
• heel pry
  • any shoe finder
  • has a USM
  • can use to spread lining
• nail set
  • from finder
  • or local hardware store
• rubber cement
  • lots of kinds
  • whatever local finder has is fine
  • Cat’s Paw, JetSet
• nylon thread for straight needle, side seams
  • 468
  • nylon
  • unwaxed
  • likes heavier thread
  • hard to set up old machines to sew it
  • nylon stretches more than old natural fibers
• trim
  • get from Texas Leather Trim
  • 5/16 side welt
  • 3/8 piping for top
  • if go wider or narrower side welting, heel measurement will change
• toe boxes
  • fiber box material
  • break down with thinner
  • once used Shoe Goo, let harden, ground to shape
  • try different things
  • don’t use fiberglass; curls on vamp, digs into toes
• foot measuring: make sure wearing same weight of sock
• baking soda and water solution: a teaspoon in a cup of water
• beeswax solution for awl: 2/3 beeswax, 1/3 stitcher wax
• bottom finishing
  • some ink whole bottom
  • if gets scarred up, can ink to cover up
  • then polish
• Doug has made some tools
  • can make tools to fit stand-up jacks, too
  • Doug: “I’m more of a sit-down person myself”
  • shows lasting jack
  • old disc off farm equipment
  • 2-inch pipe
  • just a little spring pressure to hold forepart
  • attachment for pulling lasts
  • can’t buy anywhere, have to make
  • happy to share dimensions
  • don’t make forepart post with a spring in it, since will hammer on it
  • keep connections down low, to avoid hitting tall shafts of boots
• if having trouble finding stuff, let us know
• can order for you, mark up 20%
• last numbers through Vulcan
  • helps when you call them
  • “big step in the door”
  • other guy’s main and most current last as of 1981: S5134-2
  • Lucchese as of 1982: 1170
    • squared off toe
  • older style with pointed: S8721
    • 1968 vintage
  • had to call Vulcan six times before anybody would talk to him
    • 1 to 5: $55 / pair, 5–10: less, and so on

  • This is going to be your big problem.

  • took almost a year to be able to buy
  • have half a dozen that have for sale, round-toed, high heel pitch
  • can change toe character
  • some they have would make good ropers
• Jones & Vining
  • will make small amounts: 100 pair
  • but have to use something they’re making for someone else
  • unless 5,000, won’t customize
  • have to take what they have
• Sterling doesn’t want to deal with anybody small
  • wouldn’t deal with them at all
• last: almost moc-toe
  • have B out to EEE
  • run a little large
  • good work, lace-up boot last
  • decent roper
  • about 1″ heel
  • wooden, hinged
  • 3/8 hole, so have to drill out
• plastic lasts
  • 809
  • J&V
  • inset for steel toe
  • he just fills over with leather
  • logged boot
  • 1-1/4 heel
• on spares, won’t sell single pairs, sell as sets
• next last
  • rounded toe
  • higher heel
  • heel plate and toe cap
  • wooden
• another last
  • work boot
  • 526
  • J&V
  • dated 74
  • have tried to contact J&V about filling in missing sizes, but some numbers they don’t even recognize anymore
• they stay current with what they’re selling to the main producers
• can ask Dalkins, give a number, he can make a last just like it, from patterns, charges $100 a pair
• last
  • most cowboyish
  • more like a packer
  • 709
  • heel and toe plates
  • inner cone
• $10 wooden lasts, $12 plastic
• had to buy 125 pair just to get in the door
• next last
  • dated 1958
  • wooden
• all depends on who you talk to
• good day or bad morning
• keep calling, try for a different guy
• what branch you talk to can make difference
• books [can’t make out titles from video]
  • Manual of Shoemaking
    • printed in Europe
    • training book
  • a repair book
  • pattern book
    • hard to understand
  • article collection
    • worth trying to find
    • by Lucchese