Recovered Cowboy Boot Course Video Series

YouTube video digitization of a series of films demonstrating cowboy boot making

00

• bell skiver
• post machine
• two flat bed sewing machines, one for heavy work, one for topstitching

Part 17. Findings

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0PMi_DhqfQQ

• lasting pliers
  • ordered from USM, #3, wouldn’t recommend
  • get the #2 instead, right size
  • smallest, for toe, #0
• crow wheel
  • from Sademore [???]
• finders
  • many suppliers only work in quantity
  • shoe finders will sell one of something
  • write to American Shoe Service, who has list of finders
  • buy local, to cut postage
  • Plains Leather in Lubbock geared to boots
    • e.g. sell smaller spools of thread, 800 yards
    • softer thread, size 46
    • 69 for patching machine for repair
    • spool size B
    • 46 for pattern stitching
    • soft thread
    • bigged spools: bonded thread, stiffer, easier to feed
    • bonded sometimes called “glazed”
• hot glue
  • stuff from Sears just alright
  • take a cold piece, bend it, should flex without break or crack
  • set up more like rubber than glue
• Lexol
  • cleaner and conditioner
  • 80% lanolin
  • can shine over it
  • give customers a jar of it
  • give customers no excuse for not taking care
• magazine [can’t see cover]
  • geared to bigger outfits
  • ads moreso than articles
• staple gun
  • JN2333 model number
  • Senco [???] in Billings, Montana
  • ask about used ones
  • shoots a narrower staple
  • better for lasting than wide
• heel pry
  • any shoe finder
  • has a USM
  • can use to spread lining
• nail set
  • from finder
  • or local hardware store
• rubber cement
  • lots of kinds
  • whatever local finder has is fine
  • Cat’s Paw, JetSet
• nylon thread for straight needle, side seams
  • 468
  • nylon
  • unwaxed
  • likes heavier thread
  • hard to set up old machines to sew it
  • nylon stretches more than old natural fibers
• trim
  • get from Texas Leather Trim
  • 5/16 side welt
  • 3/8 piping for top
  • if go wider or narrower side welting, heel measurement will change
• toe boxes
  • fiber box material
  • break down with thinner
  • once used Shoe Goo, let harden, ground to shape
  • try different things
  • don’t use fiberglass; curls on vamp, digs into toes
• foot measuring: make sure wearing same weight of sock
• baking soda and water solution: a teaspoon in a cup of water
• beeswax solution for awl: 2/3 beeswax, 1/3 stitcher wax
• bottom finishing
  • some ink whole bottom
  • if gets scarred up, can ink to cover up
  • then polish
• Doug has made some tools
  • can make tools to fit stand-up jacks, too
  • Doug: “I’m more of a sit-down person myself”
  • shows lasting jack
  • old disc off farm equipment
  • 2-inch pipe
  • just a little spring pressure to hold forepart
  • attachment for pulling lasts
  • can’t buy anywhere, have to make
  • happy to share dimensions
  • don’t make forepart post with a spring in it, since will hammer on it
  • keep connections down low, to avoid hitting tall shafts of boots
• if having trouble finding stuff, let us know
• can order for you, mark up 20%
• last numbers through Vulcan
  • helps when you call them
  • “big step in the door”
  • other guy’s main and most current last as of 1981: S5134-2
  • Lucchese as of 1982: 1170
    • squared off toe
  • older style with pointed: S8721
    • 1968 vintage
  • had to call Vulcan six times before anybody would talk to him
    • 1 to 5: $55 / pair, 5–10: less, and so on

  • This is going to be your big problem.

  • took almost a year to be able to buy
  • have half a dozen that have for sale, round-toed, high heel pitch
  • can change toe character
  • some they have would make good ropers
• Jones & Vining
  • will make small amounts: 100 pair
  • but have to use something they’re making for someone else
  • unless 5,000, won’t customize
  • have to take what they have
• Sterling doesn’t want to deal with anybody small
  • wouldn’t deal with them at all
• last: almost moc-toe
  • have B out to EEE
  • run a little large
  • good work, lace-up boot last
  • decent roper
  • about 1″ heel
  • wooden, hinged
  • 3/8 hole, so have to drill out
• plastic lasts
  • 809
  • J&V
  • inset for steel toe
  • he just fills over with leather
  • logged boot
  • 1-1/4 heel
• on spares, won’t sell single pairs, sell as sets
• next last
  • rounded toe
  • higher heel
  • heel plate and toe cap
  • wooden
• another last
  • work boot
  • 526
  • J&V
  • dated 74
  • have tried to contact J&V about filling in missing sizes, but some numbers they don’t even recognize anymore
• they stay current with what they’re selling to the main producers
• can ask Dalkins, give a number, he can make a last just like it, from patterns, charges $100 a pair
• last
  • most cowboyish
  • more like a packer
  • 709
  • heel and toe plates
  • inner cone
• $10 wooden lasts, $12 plastic
• had to buy 125 pair just to get in the door
• next last
  • dated 1958
  • wooden
• all depends on who you talk to
• good day or bad morning
• keep calling, try for a different guy
• what branch you talk to can make difference
• books [can’t make out titles from video]
  • Manual of Shoemaking
    • printed in Europe
    • training book
  • a repair book
  • pattern book
    • hard to understand
  • article collection
    • worth trying to find
    • by Lucchese