YouTube video by Terry Kim showing the making of handwelted loafers
Notes
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1:08:49 outseaming by hand
- piercing holes from the channel up into the welt
- uses a bone folder to press against the welt while piercing
- stitches each hole after piercing it
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hidden channel
- flattens the flap with repeated, short strokes of the hammer face
- opens the flaps again wit bone folder
- paints in adhesive with a small, flat paintbrush
- pushes the flap down again with bone folder
- hammers and rubs down
- burnishes outsole with rolling pin
-
heeling
- cuts heel lifts from bend
- marks spacing from edge and wood peg holes with a compass
- pre-pierces all peg holes
- very short pegs
- puts white glue on pegs before driving
- paper template for heel breast shape
- marks on outsole with scratch awl
- glasses the heel seat
- cements on first lift
- trims the lift immediately
- pares the first lift flat with East Asian leather knife, backhand
- rasps, using side of rasp to check flatness
- marks nail holes with compass again
- cuts the nails flush and drive them below the surface
- cements on the next lift
- trims immediately
- pares and rasps flat again
- cements the next lift, trims and pares again
- more nails, driven flush with their heads still on
- c-clamps over marble blocks
- 17:48 paring the whole heel block backhand
- checks symmetry heel-to-heel
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finishing
- heels
- rasps heel blocks
- wets heel block
- hammers with peen of French hammer perpendicular to heel
- hammers with face of French hammer
- sands the edges
- edges
- wets the edges
- hammers with peen perpendicular to edge
- hammers with face
- lets dry
- sands again
- rand file
-
breasting
- marks lines on sides of heel with pencil
- marks shape on top lift using template
- wets the part to be cut with some kind of water-based mixture
- incises with knife on top lift
- incises repeatedly, removing lifts as he cuts through them
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edge beveler on edges around forepart
- short, overlapping strokes
- wets the edges
- burnishes with edge iron
- wets the heels again
- burnishes with glazing iron
- dyes the edges and welts with a small paintbrush
- outsole
- sands with paper over thumb
- heel
- marks center point with scratch awl
- uses compass to mark pin hole spacing from the center point
- drives brass escutcheon pins partway in very near the edge
- clips them off proud, then drives them flush
- does a second row further in
- rasps them smooth
- rubs wax on like a crayon
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spirit burner to heat tools
- glazing iron on heel
- edge iron
- bevel iron on edges of outsole and heel
- fudge over heat and into beeswax to go over stitching
- burnishes edges with cloth over thumb
- heats a knife to cut away shoe covers
- heels
- making kilties
- wraps the vamps in plastic wrap before dyeing and attaching tassels
- 35:24 delasting
- trims the lining over the topline with an edge beveler
- full-length sock liners
- skives edges on bell skiver
- alcohol lamp to head brand stamp
- peg float to roughen insole surface
- polishing