YouTube video montage of Korilla Boots making a pair of handwelted service boots
Notes
- paper patterns
- black pen for tracing on tan leather
Clicking
- by hand
- oblique Korean Leather Knife pulled backhand
- cuts one large dart out of the back of the heel counter covers
- looks to be cutting over a plastic surface
- bevels edges on the cutting board
Skiving
Closing
- uses a Strobel machine to sew the backseams
- flattens the backseam over a cobbler’s anvil
- tapes the bottoms of the heel counter cover darts together, then sews and hammers flat
-
basting tape to mount the heel counter cover
- hammers the tape before peeling
- post-bed sewing machine
- uses a glass jar as a glue pot
- glue spreader
- glues quarter lining to quarters (congruent lining)
- partial bellows tongue
- brand tongue tags on the inside
- hammers the cheeks of the tongue to bend them
- basting tape for quarter seams
- hollow punch for eyelet holes over a scrap of outsole
- automatic press for eyelets
- further flattens the eyelets by hammering over an anvil
- closes the quarter seams after setting eyelets
Lasting
- laces uppers up to the ankles
- leather insoles bent up quite a bit around the featherline of the last under a bandage or other wrap
- whittles backhand with a snap-off knife
- rasps the edges
Insole Carving
- marks feather and holdfast spacing with a compass
- incises with a leather knife
- channel opener
- bone folder to spread the channel
-
French edger to cut the feather
- feather looks pretty narrow!
- rasps the feather
- burnishes the feather with bone folder
- hammers the feather to the featherline
- burnishes with face of hammer
- incises holdfast, opens with bone folder, cuts with French edger
- pre-pierces all the way around
- curved diamond awl
Lasting
- pastes in leather heel stiffeners
- pastes lining to tip of vamp, no toe puffs
- first draft at toe
- then balls
- then heel
- then three in arch through the stirrup on each side
- headed wire nails throughout
- looks to be nailing into the feather, right at the front edge of the holdfast
- trims right to the front face of the holdfast before sewing
- bends tacks all the way around
- hammers featherline smooth
- sacrificial shoe cover
- additional nails to last the shoe cover
- even bends in the nails holding the shoe cover
- wraps the upper above ankle in plastic kitchen wrap
Welting
- waxed thread
- pierces from inside out
- nails the welt to start it
- jerk needle lockstitch
- gloves
- fingertips cut off
- middle fingers cut shorter, back to big knuckles
- Osborne-style tack puller for bent nail
- leaves large tails on the knot inside, lights the ends on fire, then smushes them into the center of the insole and hammers down
- trims the upper again, right to the welt
- welts the welt, then hammers stitches, bringing the welt up flat
Bottoming
Bottom Filling
- cork sheet cut to fit cavity
- metal shank under the cork
- rougher on the welt
Soling
- leather midsoles
- hot box for cement
- curved pliers on welt
- smooth beatdown hammer
- also rubs with the hammer face
- metal roller
- whittles to the welt with snap-off knife using thumb as depth stop
- Vibram 430 outsole
- rack in hot box is made of thick dowel rods made into t-shaped racks
- pliers for outsole, beatdown hammer
- whittles with snap-off knife all in one go
Bottom Edge Finishing
- drum sander
- lien finisher to rough heel seat
- applies white tape above featherline
Outseaming
- Landis 12
- stitches from heel breast to heel breast
Heeling
- Vibram 430 heels
- one leather lift
- after beating heel down, uses face of hammer to press the welt and soles upward again
- nail set
Bottom Edge Finishing
- drum sander all around
- line finisher after
- Naumkeag
- bevels the edges of the welt
- dyes the edges with a foam brush
- wax on line finisher brush
- removes cover just by pulling, no knife