YouTube video series of Eugene Pik making custom triad style cowboy boots
Foot Measuring
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kc_upfWRo8Q
- uses the stylus to trace the foot on the pedigraph
- separate foot tracing on paper
- short heel
- long heel to the navicular bone
- instep girth
- angled ball girth
- arch girth at narrowest point
- ankle heights
- calf girth at intended boot height
Lastmaking
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ad0GeuZCQ_g
- lays different stock lasts over the foot imprints
- uses a Jones and Vining number 2-81 marked “7½D-W”
- checks long heel with tape
- marks the navicular on the cone of the last
- leather last build-up for measurements and pointier box toe
- shapes on a finishing machine
- Duall #88 cement
- covers all parts of the last not built up, as well as the bottom, with blue tape, then sprays a black coating on the leather build-ups black [why?]
- checks symmetry holding side-by-side
Tops
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZFva6Rzj6E
- 4 hours sped up into 20 minutes
- extensive notes and explanation in the video description
- designing on paper with pencil
- appears to be using a geometric method
- creates paper pattern pieces
- clicking by hand
- bell skiver
- skives some parts by hand over a glass ball
- skives the heel counters by hand, burns the skived edges
- cements heel counters and heel slides to the boot tops
- accelerates cement drying with a heat gun
- post-bed sewing machine
- uses a business card to spread cement
- fully cements the tops to their linings
- distinctive almost Christmas-tree shaped backstays
- sharpens an edge beveler on a spinning abrasive tip of a rotary tool
- crimping vamps
- similar tree-shaped tongue
- making beading for the side seams
-
saddle stitches the side seams
- in a stitching pony
- wears fingerless gloves
- duckbill pliers to shape the seam
- turns the top by hand
- treeing using chair legs separated by threaded rods