YouTube video by Kustom Kraft showing the making of green suede, lace-up, {{handwelted|} ankle boots
Notes
- uses a sole press to help with blocking, in addition to wrapping
- cuts very wide and thick welt straps
- sets eyelets with an SPS-style twist hand press
- sews the backseam by hand
- sews the backstrap by machine
- marks lots of layout lines on the insole bottom
- incises feather with a Japanese leather knife, spreads with a stick, then carves out with a knife
- pre-pierces holes
- welting just around the forepart, not through the waist
- Hirschkleber for stiffeners
- lots of talc before lasting
- leather toe puff
- buffs the welts on a line finisher
- thread making
- welts with hand leathers on both hands
- looks to be using curved needles when welting
- whip stitch shank
- twisted whip stitch in heel seat
-
nail shank
- torch to heat
- anvil to beat
- think fabric or leather layer under nail
- leather shank cover Pegged down
- bottom filling: covers the forepart with masking tape, cuts off the tape as a pattern for cork sheet
- uses an edge slicker on the side of the welt
- dyes the top rims of midsoles to match edge color before mounting
- dip-dyes outseam thread
- outseams the midsole by hand
- pegs or nails the heel part and shank of midsole
- pre-pierces holes in the midsole
- Vibram rubber outsole
- outseams outsole by hand, lockstitches
- builds leather heel stack
- burnishes edges with cloth over finger