Matt Paker Wholecut Making Video

YouTube video by Matt Paker showing the making of wholecut shoes, with somewhat fast cutting

Notes

• clicks by hand with a shoe knife
• skives on the clicking table
• closes by machine, post bed
• punches eyelet holes by hand
• trims insole on a 5-in-1 style rotary cutter
• cuts to a pre-marked pattern that fits the last
• uses a sole press to form the wet insole to the bottom of the last
• 1:53 insole carving by hand with a shoe knife
  • push cuts the feather after gouging out a channel
  • marks the inside line with pen in compass
  • hones the knife on what looks like a knife steel
  • incises the inside line with the point of the knife
  • carves the channel out at shallow angle, removing a broad strip
  • scrapes it out with the point after carving
  • pushes the knife blade up to the edge of the holdfast, paring a bit deeper
• pre-pierces at lines marked on feather, holdfast, and channel
• 3:21 wets the inside of the upper before drafting
• drafts the toe first
• plenty of hammering the upper sidewalls
• shows massaging vamp leather with thumbs to aid toe lasting
• appears to be lasting onto cement
• uses a heat gun to set the heel with the tacks still in place
• bends tacks through the heel
• possibly a celastic toe, white in color, but sandable
• 5:48 toe lasting
  • highly curved, Swedish-style pliers
  • tacks into the holdfast
  • lap lasting here, though there is a post nearby
  • smooths the featherline with the face of a hammer
• 6:32 artistic patina on the uppers before bottoming
  • airbrush
• 7:02 welting
  • skiving welt end by hand
  • frays thread end with knife over pant leg to make a taw
  • coad in leather patch
  • twists the second bristle in the first thread and pulls it back through to the outside
  • twisted shoemaker stitch
  • pulls tight by hand, without gloves or awl haft
• ribbed steel shank
• sheet cork filler cut to paper pattern
• [shoes appear to be welted from ball to ball, but only cemented down so far through waist and seat]
• shapes fiddleback waist into cork with a sandpaper patch in hand
• cuts the outsole with a different rotary cutter
• incises lines for fiddleback
• the outsole gets a heel block with top lift attached as unit before attachment to the shoe
• bottom edge finishing before attaching the outsole
• heel block is nailed down from the top
• 10:00 handcrank machine for closed channel cutting
• cements the outsole and heel assembly on
• bottom finishing with rag over thumb and face of hammer
• wets the outsole channel with a paintbrush, opens further
• 11:05 outseams by hand, stitch in stitch
  • appears to be lockstitching using a wire loop
  • uses heat gun to dry the cement before laying down the flap with the hammer face and a bottom glazer
  • tape around the sidewalls of the vamp
• brass decorative nails in heel stack