Pattern-Cutting Made Easy

1889

book on patterning by Thomas Brophy, Junior

I. Introduction

II. The Primary Pattern

Figure 2
Figure 2, Page 14

Wedge in the heel seat shows a reduction of “about ⅜ of an inch” for “draft”, to create tension pulling the topline tight.

Figure 3
Figure 3, Page 22

Explained beginning on page 25.

Note that this figure isn’t accurately drawn according to the text.

As described:

  • Line AB is perpendicular to line EF.
  • Line CD, the ground line, is perpendicular to line EF.
  • The distance from D to B is the heel height minus the sole thickness.
  • The radius of arc TLF is half the heel measure from O.
  • The radius of arc GLH is half the distance from T to O.
  • Point L marks the middle of the throat.
Explanation on Page 25

Do not be frightened at this diagram; it is by no means complicated. You place the form upon a sheet of paper, and mark round it with the pencil; you then add 7⁄10 in. along the bottom for lasting, as shown by the dotted lines. This is for machine-sewn work, with an average lightness of top . If for hand-sewn 4⁄10 in. will do, and if the top be strong or light we have to adapt allowances to the quality. After adding the 7⁄10 in. for lasting we measure from the corner of the heel of the pattern, the height of heel itself, minus the substance of the edge of the sole. To make it clear. Suppose the height of heel the boot designed for is 1 3⁄4 in. and the edge of the sole is 1⁄4 in. in thickness, we measure off 1 1⁄2 in., this gives us the point E. From the point E we draw the line EC, touching the bottom of the pattern at point P. Now from the point O at right angles to the line EC, draw the line EF. Now, I need hardly remark, at this time of day, that the leg is not perpendicular to foot when elevated by the heel, but to ground upon which the heel and toes rest. Now the line CD represents the ground, and if the leg is at right angles to the ground, it must be parallel to the line EF, and so it is; and if we draw a line parallel to EF, in the centre of the leg, it would give us the line by which the inclination of the pattern is regulated; so we see it depends upon the height of heel what inclination we give the leg. But not only does it depend exactly on the right inclination we give the leg, but we must find also what position would be the right point from which to start the front of leg at throat of pattern. For if we begin the leg too far back, we would make the back seam almost straight, and then we would be compelled to choke the pattern at the throat; so we want to find a starting-point. To find this , we draw a line from the point O parallel to CD, and from the point O, with a radius of half the heel measure, we describe the arc TLF, and from the centre T, with a radius of half the line TO, that is, quarter the heel measure, describe the arc HLG. And where the arcs cross each other is the correct point or middle of the throat. Now, with a starting-point found, and the inclination to guide us, it is not very hard to draw the front of leg by the curve from the point L; then, with the leg measure to serve as a help, the remainder of the back seam is easily completed.

diagram
A redrawing of figure 4. The radius of the circle centered on the heel point is twice the radius of the smaller circle.
Figure 4
Figure 4, Page 28

Explained beginning on page 31.

Note: per the author, “not over accurately drawn”

The distance from K to L is half the ankle measure.

Line AB is perpendicular to line BE.

The radius of arc FOE is half the heel measure from B.

The distances from F to G and E to G are half the heel measure.

The width added to the topline ahead of M is ¼ of ¼ of the length of line IJ.

The width added to the topline behind N is ¾ of ¼ of the length of line IJ.

Explanation Beginning on Page 31

The form being obtained as described, place it upon a sheet of paper, and mark round with a fine-pointed pencil; draw the line BE from the corner of heel and passing through the back of the form, as shown in the diagram. From B draw at right angles the line BF, then from B, as centre at a radius of half the heel-measure, describe quadrant FOE. From the extremities of this arc F and E, for centres using the same radius, describe arcs, cutting each other at G; now, from G as centre, and radius GO, make the arc ΗΟΙ. This will connect the form of the leg (yet to be constructed) in a circular curve, thereby making a correct pitch, which, as I said before, is not changed by any variation in the height of heel, for it is the stationary hinge upon which the leg is rotated, either backwards or forwards, being entirely governed by the heel-measure, and the angle it makes with the bottom of the foot.

To get the correct inclination from a given height of heel, we proceed thus: &emdash;Measure from the corner of heel, point B, the height of heel the pattern is to be designed for, minus the thickness of sole, and at that distance from B draw the line CD, passing through the ball F. This is the ground-line. Now from this draw a perpendicular KM tangent to (touching) the arc HOI; from K set off half the ankle measure along CD to L, and from L erect another perpendicular, LN. Now we have the main structure for the leg, as seen by the dotted parallel lines KM and NL being the foundation upon which the inclination and leg-curves depend. The rule for calf measure, after making up statistics compiled from average measurements and examination of the best models, I find is this: that if the calf measure be located at a distance of half the ankle from the ankle-line itself (IJ), its increase over the ankle measure is one-fourth of that ankle-measure. Now, to apply this rule, based upon normal proportions. Join IJ, which is the ankle measurement, because IJ is equal to KL. From I set off along KM the distance IJ. This will be as far as M. From M draw the horizontal line MN. Now, according to our rule, we have to add one-fourth of IJ to MN. The question arises, where shall we add this increase? Is it to be placed at the side M, or N, or half-and-half-perhaps some would say all at the side N. This will depend upon the particular idea of the pattern-cutter. If he wants the leg to hang back, he would apply, not only all the addition at N, but also take some from M and add it to N. If the front line is required to be perpendicular, the increase is simply added at N. But in reality there is only one way to apply this addition, and that is the right way. It will be remembered I said the front of the natural leg was not at right angles to the ground, but slightly inclined forward, and that the pattern required to be more so. So what we do is this: Divide the increase in four parts, add three at N, and one at M. This is about the proper proportion and right inclination. The formation of the curves will present no difficulty. Join the points thus found to I and J in a graceful outline, and connect the back of the form in a continuous curve to J. Add 5⁄8 in. lasting in light work, machine-sewn, and 7⁄10 in. for strong work, along the bottom. Complete by cutting out in a graceful form a correct standard through the fixed points obtained. I may remark that in some scales of fittings, especially if the heel or ankle measure is above or below the average proportion, that the arc HOI may not catch the top of the form. Should such be the case this slight irregularity must be finished freehand, keeping outside the larger ones to prevent any radical mistake. This system may appear complex and roundabout, but in practice it is nothing of the sort. Once it is understood it is sure to be easy, automatic, and correct. …

III. Principles of Design

[almost entirely a theoretical or philosophical chapter]

IV. Practical Designing

Figure 5
Figure 5, Page 34
Figure 6
Figure 7
Figure 8

V. Regular Gradation

The numerous methods of for graduating.–Repeated construction.–Arithmetic fractions.–How to compile a correct and complete scale of fittings.–Simple and useful method of grading.–American process.

the difference between the measurements of one foot, last, or pattern, and those of another a size larger or smaller

VI. Mechanical Grading

The property of the triangle.—Explanation of geometric grading.—Grading tools.—Use of mathematical instruments.—The proportional compass.—Universal system applicable to all patterns.—Unproportional grading applicable to various countries.

Figure 9
Figure 10
Figure 11
Figure 12
Figure 13
Figure 14
Figure 15

VII. Appendix

Bespoke work.—Improved system of measurement.—Last fitting.—Cutting to irregular measures.—Long work.—Metallic patterns.—Systematic arrangement of working patterns.

Figure 16
Figure 17

Through a miscalculation, I am brought to rather an abrupt close…