Siroeno Yosui Wholecut Video

YouTube video by Siroeno Yosui showing a montage of Ken Kataoka making wholecut Oxfords with an interested hybrid of handwelting and inside sewing constructions

Notes

• 0:03 clicking the upper
• 0:16 arm board on leather
• 0:25 soaks in water, rolls in towel to case
• 0:39 mounts over last, tacks into top plane
• drafts the toe first
• makes huge pleats
• tacks deep in, close to the center line of the last
• lets dry
• marks the topline on the leather with a silver pen
• cuts the leather away above the topline and down to where the facings come together
• pulls tacks and removes from lasts
• [shows the uppers standing up next to the lasts. The facing gaps have been cut open all the way down to the vamp points.]
• 2:01 clicks lining pieces
• 2:18 tes linings into uppers
• 2:33 punching eyelet holes in uppers and linings
• removes linings, inserts the eyelets and sets them
• star setting hand tool
• lining has separate vamp and quarters, sewn together
• 3:27 clicking side linings
• pastes the side linings to the linings
• pastes the whole lining assembly inside the upper bag
• 4:12 closing the topline
• edge beveled for trim allowance of lining within facings
• punches holes for bar tacks through all layers, sews by hand
• hangs the uppers up by their backparts
• 5:10 cutting insoles
  • traces the last directly onto the bend
  • dunks in water
• copper tacks insole to last
• blocks freehand
• many copper tacks, all around the edges of the insole, bent outward
• sets to dry
• pulls tacks
• finishes blocking
• Yankee welt knife on top corners
• 6:38 insole carving
  • incises with leather knife
  • opens with what looks like an edge creaser
  • very narrow waist
  • cuts channel with Yankee welt knife
  • burnishes feather with wood
  • [look like pretty thin insoles]
• 7:12 heel counters
  • traces paper pattern
  • glasses grain side
  • dunks in water
  • skives by hand over marble tile
  • rasps and glasses flesh side
  • pre-lasts
  • tack at back height, tack on each side into cuboid
  • many tacks around fully lasted smooth to bottom
  • wets ruffles below featherline and trims away
  • wets, covers in paste [looks like Hirschkleber]
  • inserts into uppers wet
• lasting
  • dusts white powder onto lasts, perhaps talc
  • drafts toe first
  • common type lasting pliers
  • 9:36 shows tons of lasting tacks around the heel, set very close together
  • paints adhesive on the insole around the toe to fix the lining
  • also paints adhesive under the lining while lasting it
• 10:29 clicking toe puffs
  • dunks in water
  • folds in towel
  • strops knife on leather, likely with some compound on it
  • skives over marble
  • [skives with the bevel of his Japanese leather knife facing down toward the marble]
  • rasps the grain side
• white paste on the lining to set the toe puff, perhaps PVA
• lasts the puff separately over the lining
• allows to dry
• pulls all tacks, trims puff
• skives the top and rasps to shape
• lots of hammering the toe puff
• same white adhesive on top before flipping upper down
• sets lasting tacks by flipping lasting pliers over and striking with the top of their beak
• lots of tacks through the toe
• bends the tacks around the toe inward after hammering the upper above
• 12:41 drives headed nails through the upper in the heel seat
• [was there a plate on the heel?]
• 12:58 lets stand
• welting
  • dunks welt in water bowl
  • marks hole spacing with compass on the upper
  • thread making on knee
  • [looks like linen]
  • curved needles
  • glove on left hand
  • welting board
  • pierces inside-out
  • saddle stitches the waist without any welt
  • begins the welt four stitches behind the joint
  • [doesn’t show much of his welting technique in this video]
• 14:34 cork filler
  • cut from paper pattern out of sheet
  • hammers over the holdfast around, then uses the cracks to peel away a stripe of excess
  • rasps a lot
  • lays an additional layer of cork from the heel breast up past the balls
• 15:34 Soling
  • traces the whole shoe so far down on the leather, directly
  • dunks in water, folds in towel
  • heat gun to dry flesh side
  • paints on adhesive
  • cut a bit oversize
  • hammers down
  • blocks by hand with leather knife, backhand
  • drives wide-headed nails around the heel seat
  • 16:40 cutting flap for hidden channel
  • cuts the flap relatively deep toward the midline
  • burnishes open with wood stick
  • incises channel under flap with leather knife
  • 17:06 pre-pierces holes with a pegging awl in the channel, under the flap, all the way from breast to breast
  • then delasts
  • thread making
  • [he’s sewing through the pegging awl holes, but it doesn’t show how]
  • inside sewing
  • puts the shoe back on the last
  • glues the flap down
  • burnishes outsole with wooden pin
• 18:13 heeling
• cuts out the center of one lift to make a split lift on the flat
• blocks each lift as it’s mounted
• nails through the third lift (including the split lift)
• clipped nails to make slugs to spank the top lift
• rasps heel block and edges to shape
• then glasses
• then sandpaper, bent in in hand
• marks heel breast with silver pen
• fudges after putting white protecting tape around upper above featherline
• rolls the fudge back and forth
• dunks edge iron in water to cool before using
• waist iron
• crow wheel along top edge of heel stack
• black Fiebing’s Pro Dye with paintbrush
• heats black wax over open flame before rubbing on
• [looks like maybe Columbus Wax]
• glazing iron to melt wax on heel stack
• waist and edge irons elsewhere
• burnishes with cloth over finger
• heats water over alcohol lamp
• dyes bottom of outsole black after sanding
• uses boiling water to melt straws of something yellow: shellac?
• bevel iron
• rubs bottom with cloth, too
• some tub of black shoe cream to finish, brushing
• delasts on lasting jack
• alpha hinge last