YouTube video by Terry Kim
Notes
Patterning
-
last taping
- from toe backward
-
1:35 pleats the tape around curve by slashing with a spatula, then flattens the pleats
-
designing on last
- marks main axis points at top of cone and tip of toe, then connects by holding steel rule above the last to sight and mark points between, connects dots by hand
- down the back, marks top and bottom, then lines between
- rubs side of pencil lead on featherline to mark on tape
- trims away the tape on the bottom before peeling away
- draws “vamp line” by measuring tape to draw line from joint to joint
- marks back height
- draws another line across forepart a little back from the first
- freehands vamp lines
- freehands wingtip peak and wings
-
heel pitch gauge to set last level
- marks heel breast
- uses compass to mark intervals a fixed distance up the main axis from the vamp point
- lays measuring tape across eyelet marks to create lines for facing curves
- different inside and outside topline curves for ankle bones
- freehands “heel cup line” from breast marks
- five eyelets
- draws curve of tongue above quarters
- removing
- slices down main axis
- cuts topline
- peels away above topline first
- peels facings back, presses to index cards underneath and trims
- then peels sides off from toe back to main axis of heel
- presses tips of toes to edge of bench to hang
- lays onto pattern paper
- focus on avoiding wrinkles along topline
- slashes the bottom edge to flatten
- cuts wingtips from fronts
- cuts “heel cups” from rears
- lays heel cup pieces edge to edge and traces onto new paper
- tops come together, bottom points are splayed out
- marks main axis
- adds 20mm lasting allowance by marking a few points with a compass and connecting them
- wingtip
- lays pieces so they meet at the peak and splay at the featherline
- traces to new paper
- adds lasting allowance
- vamp
- lays pieces so they meet at the tip peak and vamp point
- very irregular shape
- adds 10mm seam allowances
- trims curves very carefully
-
pattern slashes cut between marks made along the curves
- punches holes [for eyelets?]
-
35:05 applies adhesive to seam allowance over paper to fit up
- narrow basting tape for facings
- pulls last machine lockstitch back through to inside
- pastes doublers to facings
- paste for heel counter cover
- all on the flat so far
-
39:24 edge piping facings and topline
- basting tape
- pre-cut, corrugated strips
- lining laid in
- goose-neck edge beveler to trim lining
-
41:38 holes
- marks with drive punch by pressing first
- tongue in last, under the lining
- marks bar tack holes with compass, pierces with awl
-
hand stitches the bar tack
-
43:28 gloves
- [looks like maybe an Angelus bottle]
-
wool dauber
- dots the dye on, daubing rather than brushing or smearing
- burns ends of plastic ribbon to use as lace tie
- puts a piece of leather under the lace ribbon
Pre-Lasting
-
45:20 pours tacks out of large glass jar into a lid
- wets upper with spray bottle all over, from the outside then the inside
- toe first
- tacks at back height
- narrow common lasting pliers, striking with the top of the beak, not the anvil
Insole
- takes off the last
- cuts from side or bend
- traces bottom paper
- submerges in water
- folds insoles back and forth in hands after taking out of water
- tacks to the lasts
- wraps with bicycle tire
- leaves 20 minutes
- removes bands
- allows to dry for a “day or two”
-
insole blocking, whittling by hand
- feels feather edge with thumb for smoothness
- compass to mark feather
- incises with knife
-
channel opener, looks like painter’s multi-purpose scraper
- carves away as a strip with knife, in short strokes
- marks holdfast inner edge with compass
- incises at an angle
- no feather around heel, but channel
- channel opener
- carves away channel as a strip
- scrapes channel with glass
- blue paper soap brushed onto feather and channel
- rubs feather and channel with bone
- marks hole positions with compass
-
pre-piercing
- wiggles the awl a lot
Stiffeners
-
59:42
- veg-tan heel counters
- cuts with scissors
- finishes with knife
- bell skiver
- finishes skiving by hand to feather edge
- thoroughly wets with spray bottle
- pre-lasts to shape
- marks back height on last
- lays heel counter at back height to tack
- then tacks at center back
- then sides, near heel breast
- pleats all around the heel
- dry about 3 hours
- trims away lasting allowance with scissors
-
wood glue for stiffeners
- tacks trim allowance above back of heel
- cuts toe puffs from side
- lays on last, marks edge with pen
- thoroughly wets with spray bottle, on both sides
- more wood glue
- two tacks on top
- pleating
- once toe lasted, pulls tacks from toe lining
- hammers top of puff, then pulls nails from the top of it
- full day to dry
- sharpening knife on stone
- toe puff from tip of toe back
- rasps
- sanding stick
- wets with spray bottle
- burnishes with wood
-
leather hardener
- lets dry three hours
- pares pleats flat
- sanding stick on remaining lasting allowance of toe puff
-
wood glue on top
-
toe lasting
- knocks down tacks around toe
1:14:59
-
TPU film
- big fan-shape pattern
- tapes together at back
-
heat gun on the floor, pointing up
- heats the plastic, then stretches it further
- tacks to the insole
-
bends down tacks
- then blows all around with heat gun
Welt Making
- marks line with pen on flesh side
- incises
- channel opener
- burnishes with wood stick
- groover
- shows beleved edge
Wax Making
- melting pot over burner
- 60% beeswax, 40% rosin
- rubs beeswax block into bottom of pot
- drops in rosin flakes
- pours into tray of water
- gathers drippings together with hands into balls
Thread Making
- rubs ball of wax onto thread hung from a hook
- winds thread in hand
- dark brown in color
Welting
- paper soap into pot
-
lap board with last pin
- piercing from inside out
- pulls needle through before putting second needle in
- wets holdfast with soap mixture
- looks like curved harness needles
-
interlaced gimp through toe
- twisting motion on awl
- pulls tight with awl haft
- trims welts at bevel at ends
Sewing Seat
- piercing from outside in
- saddle stitch
Trimming
- trims to the outside of the holdfast
- then pulls tacks through insole
- rubs down welt with bone
-
welt beater
- wets the holdfast before hammering to flatten with pane
Bottoming
- rubs pink tailor’s chalk on bottom of welt to press onto paper for a cavity pattern
- cements leather strip into the channel, hammers with pane
- wraps metal shank in cotton tape
- cements the shank down
- cementson cork sheet for seat through shank
- another cork sheet covers the whole cavity
- bevels the edge of the cork with knife
- rasps flat
- checks flatness with side of rasp
- paper pattern for marking fishtail and center line of beveled waist
- uses basting tape to attach clear film to the bottom to mark a pattern for the outsole
- also marks dots down the ridge of the beveled waist and fishtail
- uses basting tape to mount the plastic pattern to the leather for cutting
- incises the fishtail line and opens with channel opener
- bevels the waist on the flat with knife, glass
- bends the waist together to shape
- cements the outsole on
- wets the sole from the bottom with spray bottle
- burnishes with rolling pin
- whittles to welt
- sanding stick on edges
- adds tape to shoe cover around featherline
-
fudge
- sprays tip with water, then heats over flame from behind
- one continuous stroke around welt
- marks stitches with awl
- dyes the welt
- wets the outsole around the welt and waist, cuts hidden channel
- wets again, opens flap with bone folder and hammer
- marks line with compass, then pen
- incises line, channel opener, wood folder, groover
- brushes out with wire brush
- burnishes with bone
-
thread making
- gathers lint with awl
- dyes thread to match color by daubing over paper
Outseaming
-
square awl
- pierces from bottom up through waist
- pierces from top down around forepart, through welt
- bent needles
- puts both needles through at same time
- twisting motion on awl
- wets flap
- spreads flap down with face of hammer
- let dry for a day
- opens flap with bone folder
- paintbrush to put adhesive below
- rubs down with face of hammer again
- spray bottle to wet down sole again
- burnishes with rolling pin again
- marks line around seat with compass
- marks spacing for holes with compass
-
wood pegs
-
wood glue to dip pegs in
- leaves pegs standing a little proud
- flush cuts them
- wets sole again
- scrapes away surface through the waist
- burnishes with rolling pin again
- rasps pegs smooth
- sands with patch of sandpaper
- same sole bend for heel lifts
- cements stack
- sharpens knives before trimming lifts
- pares second lift flat from back to front, then rasps
- marks line and holes for nails
- marks each nail hole with a cross
- clips nails flush
- cements on third heel lifts
- pares middle of lift flatter again, rasps
- cements on fourth lifts
- flattens yet again
- checks flat with side of rasp
- another line of nails
- drives nails flush to heads
- cements on fifth lifts
-
c-clamps over marble slab as press
- “Be careful not to tighten the c-clamp too much.”
- leave in the press about an hour
- pares the whole heel block at once
- sanding block
- wets edge
- hammers with pane “to harden the surface”
- repeats on edges around forepart
- sanding block again
-
breasting
- marks line with pen
- paper soap to wet heel stack
- incises, then wets again
- pries waste of one lift away at a time
- edge beveler in short, overlapping strokes
-
rand file, tape added to shoe cover above featherline
-
fudge heated again to, rolled in wax before going over stitches in short, overlapping strokes
-
edge iron cold
- wets edge of heel stack
- burnishing iron, cold
- sandpapers bottom of outsole
- dyes edges with paintbrush
- sands edges for visual effect
- solid brass nails into heel left proud, clipped flush
- runs glass scarper over nails
- brass nails into toe, as well
- sanding stick on nail tops
- glass scraper over nails again
- rubs oil onto bottom of outsole
- wraps dauber in patch of flannel cloth to dye outsole bottom
- burnishes bottom with cloth
- warms wax by holding in hand
- rubs wax on edges like crayon
- heats irons and fudge
- heats wax over flame, daubs on heel edges
- spritzes water on bevel iron to cool
-
burnishing iron on heel stack, moving quickly back and forth
-
edge iron
- burnish with flannel cloth
- heats knife over flame to cut shoe cover
Finishing
- cuts plastic laces
- pulls pins out of lining above topline
- delasts on last jack
- trims topline lining with gooseneck beveler
-
peg float
- flush cutter on pegs inside heel seat
- brushes off dust
-
Saphir shoe cleaner on brush
- cream polish applies on brush
- wax polish
- full sock liner
- skives edges through waist
- heated brand stamp
- foam heel pads under sock liners