YouTube video showing Hwang Taewook making longwing Norwegian construction derby shoes
Notes
- large umbrella lamp for photos in shop
- mostly hanging leather storage
- big shiny pattern weights
Clicking
- silver pen
- pinking shears to click some pieces, then lighter to burn loose fibers
- rubber mat over large granite block to punch holes
- toe flower by punching through holes in a paper pattern
- checks broguing work by holding pieces up to a lamp
Closing
- post-bed sewing machine
- chip brush with bristles cut very short for gluing
- long gooseneck beveler for liner trimming
- hangs uppers on pegboard
Insole Carving
- Korean-style leather knife
- whittles insole bevel down
- bevels the top edge of the insole with the knife, freehand
- sandpaper, then glass on edges
- wets before marking and carving holdfast
- incises channel, then scratches open, then burnishes with bone folder, then cuts away
- also thins the leather within the holdfast with knife, sands
- 6:25 marks line halfway down thickness around the edge of the insole
- 6:28 marks vertical lines across that line at regular intervals for holes
- 6:34 pricks the hole with a scratch awl
- pierces from the outside in, no feather, Norwegian style
- switches at some point to inside out, as through toe
- holes all the way around, 360
Lasting
- lays in heel counter
- Hirschkleber bottle on bench
- Schein lasting pliers
- tacks at counter point
- puts several tacks through excess lining above topline, bends them up
- lasts the heel lining separately, before the heel seat of the upper
- look like copper tacks through heel
- thinner, tapered lasting pliers for toe
- copper tacks again
- pares leather toe puff down over marble slab
- cases in a towel
- marks line for length of toe puff on toe lining
- tacks puff first at wings
- two tacks on top of puff, bent to each side
- taller bright tacks for lasting toe puff
- continues paring the puff down on the last
- checks by feel with finger
- rasps the toe puff
- sanding block
- checks symmetry
- some kind of white hardener from bottle on top of puff
- burnishes with stick
- pares the puff and heel counter way down under the featherline
- makes paper patterns with tape for side linings on the last, over the lining
- bell skiver on the side linings
- smooths side linings with French hammer
- pares down their edges with knife
- sandpapers flush
- white adhesive over the toe puff now
- bends tacks down all around
- heated glazing iron on the upper below the featherline, all around, then all over the upper
Thread Making
- passed the thread through a loop around bobbin stand of sewing machine to immobilize each end
- black thread
- waxes by hand and burnishes
- 14:34 scrapes ends with glass over bench to make taws
- waxes the taws pulling the leather forward toward the tips
Welting
- starts at medial heel seat
- saddle stitching
- long curved needles or bristles
- composite stitch
- uses shoe awl haft to pull to tension on inside, no hand leather on outside
- interlaced gimp through toe, looks like heavy undyed twine
- continues the decorative stitch all around
Turning Out
- 16:42 turns upper out and hammers down
- trims the lining and puffs to the outside faces of the holdfasts
- hammers the holdfast down all the way around
Bottom Filling
- uses masking tape and pencil to make pattern of cavity
- cuts shank cover from sole bend, wets, bends
- pastes the flesh side to the insole
- no steel or wood or other shank bar
- hammers down with the pane of the hammer
- pares down with knife
- sanding block, glass scraper
- from joints forward, glues a sheet of cork
- rasps down
- uses sanding block to level flange of upper and holdfast
Bottoming
- cuts midsole from bend
- cements from heel back to toe
- bone folder to push flange down
- hammers from bottom
- burnishes with hammer face
Outseaming
- twisting motion
- starts from inner heal breast, works backward around heel first
- black thread
- saddle stitch
- needles or bristles again
- no channel below
- hammers stitches down at bottom
- bone folder to press flange down outside stitches
- 21:23 trims flange to stitching, very close
- whittles
- cuts outsole from bend
- fixes from heel forward
- welt beater and hammer for midsole to outsole
- sharpens knife before whittling outsole to midsole
- cuts bevel down
- sanding block
- glass scraper
- edge beveler on top
- rasps the bottom edge upward
- burnishing stick on sole
- sandpaper and bone folder on edge of upper above flange
- #10 fudge
- outseaming
- square awl
- pricks hole positions with square awl beforehand
- marks inward line for hidden channel flap with silver pen on outsole
- cuts with knife
- opens with bone folder
- looks to be about 1mm deep
- wets under with toothbrush
- hammers upward
- incises, spreads, bone folder to make groove
- black thread for outseam
- twisting motion with awl
- definitely needles, not bristles
- thread snips
- wets entire outsole before bending flap back down
- bends down, hammers down, burnishing stick
- then turns up again with bone folder, brushes glue underneath, wets top of flap, presses down by hand
- hammers down again
- rubs down with face of hammer
- burnishing stick again
- whittles overlap away
- [When sanding with his thumb, he cuts a long strip of sandpaper, then uses just the tip of it, tearing away and moving back up the strip as he goes. The extra sandpaper acts a bit like a loose handle in the hand.]
- sands with thumb, sanding block, glass scraper
- brushes off
- edge beveler on top
- rounds bottom edge up with rasp
- alcohol lamp
- hot fudge over stitching
- edge iron marked “D”
Heel Building
- leather lifts
- marks the pattern of the seat in pen on the lift so it’s visible once cemented on
- pares the middle flat
- glass scraper to level
- sanding block on edges
- marks inner perimeter to guide nailing
- flat-headed nails
- sanding block over nail heads
- slim inset rubber corner in top lift
- checks stance on a sheet of plate glass
- c-clamp over side of bench as heel press
Finishing
- electric burner for heating tools
- wets edge
- fudge over stitching again
- burnishing iron on heel stack
-
edge iron
- uses a very tall iron, using just one edge, without reaching the bevels on the other side
- sandpaper patch all over, including outsole, brushes off dust
- lets sit
- black dye with paintbrush
- rubs wax on like a crayon
- burnishing iron and edge iron over wax
- bevel iron
- hand burnishing with rag
- pegging awl to make holes for decorative nails in top lift
- drives in partway and clips off
- rasps clipped nails down
- sandpapers all around
- dyes toplift and sole with sponge in long, strong strokes
- burnishes with finger in rag
Custom Box
- cuts from boards
- nail gun
- hardware latch
- pyrography for brand: TEI