Sobreiro Handmade Boots Series

YouTube video series by Sobreiro Boots showing a montage of making handwelted leather Derby boots with wave-shaped quarter seams

Notes

Part 1

• plastic last build-up with cork
• 0:48 last taping
  • main axis first
  • starts with backpart
  • marks main axis freehand with pencil
• 2:48 patterning on the last form
• flattens the tape last form with a ruler and fingers, preserving the top lines
• notches the last form at the counter point, the front of the heel counter cover
• makes pattern line holes the full lengths of many design lines
• traces through the line holes onto stiff board
• 12:45 clicking
  • stencil knife
  • rotary hole punch
  • lacing chisel to punch holes for the backseams
  • punches over a scrap of leather
• 17:35 hand whip stitches the backseam
  • thick thread
  • flattens first by hand, then hammers down
• 19:59 fitting and closing the backstrap
  • post-bed sewing machine
• 25:03 closing French binding top straps
• 31:34 fitting and closing tongue seams and quarter seams
• skips to shot with eyelets set and heel counter covers sewn on

Part 2

• 0:00 insole blocking
• looks like a Barnsley knife
• <$- time(1, 2, 48) insole carving
  • marks line for feather with a pen
  • opens channel with what looks like a screwdriver
  • Yankee welt knife to cut feather
  • lots of force on the welt knife
  • incises inner line for channel
  • cuts the channel with the welt knife, too
  • cuts feather and channel all the way around
  • pre-pierces
  • puts his thumb across from the awl point, once halfway through moves thumb on top of the holdfast
• 11:48 lasting
  • lots of massaging and stretching by hand to draft
  • three in the toe, then to the heel
  • hoists, beating with a hammer
  • trims forepart lining and heel upper leather before lasting the toe
  • bends in nails through the forepart
  • thoroughly hammers the upper down in the heel seat, moving to a jack dragon to do so
  • thoroughly hammers the outside of the heel seat, as well
• 18:21 welting
  • scribes a line around the forepart upper leather, against the holdfast, with a silver pen
  • uses the line as a target for welting
  • pierces through the upper without the welt against first, then positions the welt and pierces it
  • fees the bristle from the inside first, setting the awl down
  • pulls tight around hand leather and awl haft
• 22:06 bottoming
  • hammers a rectangular cut stock sole blank onto the welt
  • crimps it with standard slip-joint pliers
  • sands the bottom of the outsole
  • outseams by hand
  • places a scrap of leather between the awl and the upper
  • marks a target line on the bottom of the midsole, incises it, wets it, opens it
  • pre-pierces all the holes
  • looks to be a square awl
  • lockstitches with a jerk needle through the pre-pierced holes
  • rubber half sole in the forepart
• 27:13 bottom edge finishing
  • rasps
  • sandpaper patch under thumb
  • [doesn’t show heel building]
• 28:19 sock liners
  • full length
  • skives edges
• 28:59 finished shots