Welt

a part of some shoes in the form of a belt or flange of material, often leather but sometimes plastic, sewn to both the insole or upper and the bottom, connecting them

Coverage

Welts may be sewn to uppers all the way around, covering forepart, waist, and seat, or only part of the way. There are confusing and somewhat contradictory terms for this.

“360 degree welt” means a welt is sewn all the way around.

“270 degree welt” often means a welt is sewn and the forepart and waist, with some other attachment for the heel.

“180 degree welt” sometimes means a welt around just the forepart, ending at or just behind the treadline. Confusingly, this may also be called a “three-quarter” welt, as by some cowboy boot makers.

Width

Welts differ widely in width. Very generally, formal shoes tend to have narrower welts, while heavy-duty work boots tends to have wider welts, especially for double rows of outseam stitching.

In the United States, pre-made welt is often sold in widths of 1/2″, 9/16″, 5/8″, and 3/4″, or roughly 13mm, 14mm, 16mm, and 19mm.

Thickness

Welts also differ in thickness. Formal shoes tend to have thinner welts, heavy-duty work boots thicker welts.

In the United States, pre-made welt is often sold in thicknesses of 2mm, 3/32″ (a little over 2mm), 3mm, or 1/8″ (a little over 3mm).

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